“We were wiped out by the Foot and Mouth Epidemic so
we had to do something!” Penny Norton’s stoical explanation as to how the
Passionate Lady Gardeners of Northumberland began as a group epitomised, for
me, the nature of the people of Northumberland.
Our tour guide, Judith Edgoose, gave us a brilliant
synopsis of the history of The Land of The Prince Bishops and the Border
country as we travelled from hotel to garden, garden to garden and back to
hotel over the course of the weekend; we were reminded of the turbulent and
violent past of this beautiful part of our nation. From marauding Picts and Celts, raiders and
invaders: Viking, Roman and Norman, and their own local Border Reivers (from
whom we get the word ‘bereaved’), through the Wars of the Roses and the Civil
War, the area is dotted with fortifications ranging from castles to the pele
towers of farmsteads and isolated settlements. In more recent years, the people
have prospered and lost with the rise and fall of industries such as
shipbuilding, steel and coal.
Weather in this part of the country can be extreme –
we were told that earlier this year the temperature dropped to -7 overnight –
in June! Deep snow is usual during the
winter months, as are storms with torrential rain and strong winds, with
resulting flash floods, damaged power lines and structural damage. And just 2weeks before our visit, the gardens
we were visiting had been ravaged by a hurricane – Penny had watched the blooms
being torn off the bushes in her rose garden and being blown past her window as
the wind cut through leaves, flowers and branches in its path. You have to be tough, indefatigable and
adaptable to survive here, whether you are human, livestock or plant!
Fortunately for us, the weather was beautiful for our
visit and although the gardens had been ravaged by hurricane winds, the
constant gardeners had been out tidying it all up so that we could enjoy the
remaining blooms, and the wonderful designs of planting.
It was a long drive up to
The following morning after a hearty breakfast we set
off for Newbiggin House. The gardens had
been designed and begun in 1996by Daphne Scott-Harden in the grounds of a large
stone house set into the hill at the top of Derwent Reservoir, with views out
from the front of the house across the
We then made our way to Whalton Manor, stopping on the
way for lunch in The Old School, Blanchland Village; the entire village has
been owned and managed by Lord Crewe’s Charity since 1721 and is well worth
visiting. Whalton Manor was originally 4
separate houses which, over the centuries, were united, culminating in the
contribution of Edwin Lutyens’ architectural expertise both in house and
garden, and a garden (sadly now gone) designed by Gertrude Jekyll. Penny is an artist and the garden is an
artist’s dream – swathes of colour and height, architectural structures and
both formal and ‘natural’ planting. We
came across plants which none of us could name, and one plant in particular
even Penny could not name – a lovely Marguerite of some sort, but with strange
leaf structure. ‘Never mind’ laughed
Penny, ‘Just ask Ginny when you visit her garden. I am sure she gave me the cuttings’. We had a delicious afternoon tea in the
renovated Game Larder of the manor house which is full of photographs of the
Manor House, gardens and the family. The
house is currently split into 3, with the family retaining the centre part, one
wing is let out and the other wing is a holiday let.
Heading back to the hotel, we took a detour to see The
Angel of the North – with the sun starting to set, it was a moving experience
to stand beside this enormous structure which looks as if he is warding off
would-be invaders, and about to launch himself into the sky. Then it was back to the hotel for a quick
swim before dinner.
Sunday morning we set off early to visit the Gardens
of Alnwick Castle. The Duchess of
Northumberland is reported to have spent over £10 million in creating a series
of gardens in the castle grounds. The
top of the garden has been set out as formal gardens, with high walls for
shelter. Not for the first time we found
plants we could not identify, but most of the planting was labelled. Cascades of fountains lead down to the wide
lawns below; to the right is the renowned
After a brief lunch in the cafe and a look round the
shop, it was time to explore the ‘tree house’ – a massive structure with rope
bridges, cafe, information room and a restaurant. Then back to the coach for our trip across
the remains of
The journey to the hotel took us back through the
wonderful countryside with the
Monday, our final day of the trip, took us to Crook
Hall on the outskirts of the City.
Judith suggested we set off early so some of us could spend some more
time in the Cathedral, this time managing to see the tomb of St Cuthbert in
what was once the apse of the cathedral.
The stained glass windows were beautiful, as were the embroideries and
sculptures around the building, and the atmosphere was warm and welcoming as well
as being very peaceful. We walked from
there to Crook Hall and met up with our coach and those who had chosen not to
walk. Crook Hall has a medieval hall and
is designed in a series of gardens, most with stunning views either to the
Cathedral in the distance or over pastures with horses grazing. There were walled gardens which offered
seclusion and peace as well as a courtyard garden that was shady and cool. We had been recommended to try the homemade
scones so after wandering at our leisure around the house and grounds, we sat
in a sunny spot near the house and tucked in to scones, cream and jam, with our
morning coffee. Delicious!
At last we decided it was time to head home. We said our farewells to Judith and thanked
her for her professional and warm guidance on the trip. Barry took a weary group of garden buffs
home, surrounded by their new plants and cuttings.
The Passionate Lady Gardeners of Northumberland have
made a considerable impact on those who have been lucky enough to visit their
gardens. They began at a time of loss
and devastation as a result of the Foot and Mouth epidemic to try and encourage
people to come back to the countryside and also to diversify from being totally
reliant on the farming industry. They
have put all their resources and skills into transforming and enhancing their
gardens, not just for their own benefit, but for ours too. I think we were all impressed with the amount
of work and passion they have put into making their gardens so very
beautiful. We all seemed to have our own
favourites. Each had their own
characters and styles so it would be unfair to try and compare them. We saw what can be achieved when millions are
spent on creating a spectacular garden from scratch, designed to be open to the
public all year round, and what can be achieved by individual gardeners making
a garden out of a rugged and sometimes inhospitable landscape. We can learn and be inspired from all that we
saw.